This is week 179, and here we are sharing a post on Eyebrows. In the many years of my make up career, one of my passions it’s been eyebrows. My point of view is that you can build and change a character with a few strokes, eyebrows not only frame the eyes, they have the ability to create moods of expressions. Here we offer tips and bits of experience and research of years of collective work. We are sharing answers to questions regarding what to look for in cosmetic tattooing work also. Enjoy and please feel free to write us an email if you have further questions. It is a lot of information we edit so we can keep the attention of all walks of readers. We wish to thank you once again for all your support , please remember to share and like It is an important part for our blog.
Eyebrow Drawing Guidelines
Beginning Of The Brow
Expert advice teach that eyebrows should start above the inner corner of the eye. Sometimes the brow is pulled out or in a little depending on how close or wide set the eyes are. This is of importance due to the fact that that proportion can either make the person look cross eyed if the bridge of the nose is smaller, if the face is round, it separates to make the face look rounder and the eyes smaller . Pulling the brows abnormally close together for the purpose of slimming the nose starts working against you and will make the nose look more prominent or look angry. Some beauty tips say to put a pencil straight up from the outer edge of the nose, but may not be so accurate because there are too many variations in nose width. A little more precision is needed if it will be a permanent eyebrow because it is there to stay. I mark the center and measure distance from this point to the start of each brow. This works most of the time. However, nothing is can be taken as ever, never or always and you can make adjustments before you draw it ll the way.
Arch Of The Brow
The break of the eyebrow arch should be in the area above the outer edge of the iris while focusing straight ahead. This will be a little short of two thirds. You can move the arch out a tad to widen that side of the face, or for other preferences, keep in mind a balance. Beauty tips often say 2/3, or to line a pencil from the outer edge of the nose going up along the outside of the iris and breaking where the pencil hits. The two thirds is one fourth inch too far out for the average face. The pencil from the nose puts the arch even farther than 2/3 unless you are making an extra long wrap around the temple brow. Again, there are variations in nose width that would fan the pencil in or out. Other variations include length of the eyes and how close or wide set they are.
The shape of the brow and the entire arch should be seen from the front of the face. The head should not have to be rotated to see the whole brow. The last half inch may start disappearing from the frontal view, but not an inch or more. Too many faces have the arch out too far. It looks like that part of the head was stretched out horizontally, or the brows are too big for their face. It also makes the eye length look shorter. We don’t want to return to the 50’s center arch and look surprised. The best look for the arch is almost two thirds. Factors that affect the need to move it in or out a little bit include brow size and shape, sharp or smooth arch, face size, and face shape.
Ending Of The Brow
The tail end of the brow is marked by placing a pencil or a brush from the center of the lip traveling up along the edge of the outer eye. The mark is made on the inside of the pencil. Variations in face length, face width, eye length, and how close or wide set the eyes are may require moving this mark in or out . Most Beauty tips say to go from the outer edge of the nose, but noses have different widths that would cause this line to fan in or out. The center of the lip stays the same.Is many different looks that can be accomplished by lifting or lowering he outside tip of the brow you can rather lift or droop the look of the eye and the face for that matter.
According to most eyebrow experts the ending tip of the eyebrow should be at the same level as the beginning, this can vary depending on the effect you wish to acomplish. A small difference is not noticeable, and the contours of the skeletal structure and fat pads may dictate some modifications. An example is, tails ending lower than a small amount below the beginning look sad or aged.
Basic Eyebrow Shape Guidelines
Eyebrow measurement guidelines are meant to assist in optimizing an individual’s brow shape, there are many companies that offer stencils to aid with shape if you have any doubts. For maintaining brow hair growth in the designed shape when considering permanent eyebrow tattoo, working with the hair growth pattern is preferred to shaving and redrawing most likely you will be happier. The eyebrows do not have to be shaved to apply permanent cosmetics Tattoo needles go around and between the hairs when it is done correctly. The eyebrow shape can be enhanced toward the shape desired by coloring high in the hairs at the arch, in the middle or as needed in other parts. If a part of the eyebrow, such as the outer portion, does not allow the shape you want, then you can tweeze . The outer brow hair is usually sparse and not an issue for many people. Hair in the inner portion is usually plentiful, and at least part of the hair growth should be incorporated into the design. Eyebrows are drawn on first. When you are happy with the drawn on design, permanent makeup is applied on top of it, using it as a pattern or guide. You may draw them yourself, or let the tattoo artist help you. If there is a particular shape and thickness you want, bring pictures from a magazine to your appointment. This will save time and eliminate any miscommunication about your preferences.
Drawing Eyebrows For Face Shapes And Facial Features
Uneven eyebrows may affect the shape you wish to attain. We are all born with one eyebrow shaped different than the other, like one side of the face is different than the other or one brow higher than the other. Uneven eyebrow height usually occurs later in life as a result of the aging process. One side of the face will be lower than the other, and it is almost always the side you sleep on. The pressure on the skin decreases circulation for hours while sleeping, plus the skin gets pulled and slid around when I work on faces, I can always tell the side they sleep on. They usually have a crease and definitely sags more, as a well known dermatologist that I visited told me that was my weak side! Ah didn’t like that. Women often appear to have uneven eyebrows because of habitual raising of the forehead muscles – one side higher than the other – Interestingly, the brow that women raise higher is actually the brow that is lower in the relaxed position . The muscle gets stronger and stronger, able to raise the brow higher and higher. Remember what Mom said is that if you keep making faces your face will freeze that way? Some of the brow raising women cannot relax their forehead muscles when they try and not only affects the brows it also affects the creases we make. Sometimes, older women are raising eyebrows to open the eyes more to see better that is one of the trades that plastic surgeons look for when assessing the eyes for a lift, and by the way Insurance covers the upper blepharoplasty lid surgery the reason being of site obstruction !!. Sagging upper eyelids weigh down the eye and decrease, a visual field a test will show that lateral peripheral and superior upper vision is affected. If the eyebrow is sagging below the brow bone orbital rim, insurance may pay for a direct brow lift (incision above the brow – not an entire forehead lift).
If one eyebrow is lower than the other, or shaped a little differently, you have three choices:
1) Leave them uneven because you want all your real hairs to be growing in the permanent makeup area
2) Make small modifications to improve symmetry (color high on the low side and color low on the high side) – a compromise that would reduce but not eliminate eyebrow hairs in the cosmetic tattoo area, and may still be a little asymmetric
3)Remember we are not Robots similar eyebrows is good exactly the same no so good, it looks weard
Many women have not noticed that their eyebrows are not the same, and are less likely to notice it on other people. On the other hand, there are some eyebrow obsessed fanatics that are as upset over a one hair difference as an anorexic is with a one ounce weight gain. We want to get the two eyebrows as similar as possible, but each side of the face is different – which is why it is of importance to keep it in mind and it can be time consuming to draw the eyebrows the same every morning. The shape of the skull differs from one side to the other in the curvature of the frontal to temporal bone, the prominence of the brow ridge, and the indentation above it each side of the body is different for a reason,masculine and feminine, left and right has a different use and development. The contour of fat tissue is also different on each side. Each side of the face has its own set of muscles, nerves, and blood supply. Often, one side will be the dominant, stronger side. A person will typically raise the same brow to varying degrees all day long without realizing it. This adds to the challange of drawing eyebrows evenly each day. Women tend to raise a brow when focusing in on something – like themselves in the mirror. One side of the forehead muscles tense unnoticeably as you concentrate and become irritated by multiple attempts to complete the task. When you finally reach a satisfactory result, you go finish the morning routine. One last glance in the mirror and AYYYY ! they are uneven after you relaxed the muscles. The eyebrows are going to be in varying positions all day as you work and interact with others, especially if you have a tendency to be very expressive.
A note of caution: When drawing your eyebrows in preparation for cosmetic tattooing, this same thing can happen. The brows can be drawn on; look even, tattooed, and then later looks uneven. One of two scenarios can occur. 1) The muscles were tense and raising the skin unevenly at the time the eyebrows were drawn. They were thought to be even, and were even – in the tensed muscle state. Once relaxed, they are uneven. 2) The muscles were relaxed at the time the eyebrows were drawn. They were thought to be even, and were even – in the relaxed muscle state. Once you return to your normal raised brow position, they are uneven, so is a very good measure to pay attention to the process so you don’t want to erase your artist from the face of the earth, a well trained professional will be swear of this habits.
If a person raises a brow briefly or occasionally, the brows should be drawn evenly in the relaxed position. If a person keeps the same brow raised almost all the time, the raised side can be drawn slightly lower and flatter to compensate. If you are drawing the eyebrows yourself, do it hours before your appointment so you will have plenty of time to recheck them. If you are letting the permanent makeup artist draw your brows, your forehead will be most relaxed while gazing downward at the floor (but keep head up straight). Don’t close your eyes because lack of visual stimuli makes you more sensitive to touch and forehead muscles will tense when you have nothing better to do than wonder what is going on with your eyebrow shaping. Looking at the artist or straight ahead may cause the muscle to tense and raise a brow.
BOTOX VS FACIAL EXERCISING
Repeated facial expressions leave wrinkles in the skin. The forehead over the raised brow will have more wrinkles and/or a different pattern of wrinkles. A person could try to break the brow raising habit by training not to react with the forehead. Placing a strip of tape( frownies) upward from the brows can serve as a reminder every time you contract the muscles. Botox shots paralyze the muscle to prevent contraction and give the skin a chance to smooth out. It also helps the muscle forget what it was constantly doing (raising) and helps weaken the too stong hyperactive forehead muscles. It wears off in about four months for most people are different. After many repeated injections, it begins lasting longer and the muscle may become permanently paralyzed Mhmmmm!. Vendors of facial exercising gadgets like Flex Effect tell us that deteriorating facial muscles cause facial sagging, and that exercising these muscles will lift and tone the face, and increase circulation to feed nutrients to the skin.I like Microcurrent to retrain the muscles it really works and very fast. Lack of muscle use leads to atrophy. Daily exercise, which would contribute to strengthen the facial muscles and increase circulation is a great approach. There are electronic muscle stimulators like the Face master from Suzanne Somers that can give maximum muscle contraction with minimal skin disturbance in the contrary it will regenerate the muscles and the overall of the face. My opinion is that occasional Botox injections are beneficial for preventing wrinkles, but the muscles should be given a period of normal activity before repeat injections. How long the time lapse should be depends on the severity of the case.
BOTOX AND PERMANENT MAKEUP
Botox is used in various areas for specific effects. Injected into certain locations of the forehead, it can raise the eyebrows. If botox is raising the brows at the time they are drawn for the eyebrow tattoo, the brow placement and shape will be different after the botox wears off. An eyebrow tattoo should be timed before or after the brow raising technique is in effect unless you plan to have repeated injections forever. Worth mentioning is that when the brow is raised by botox, it pulls the arch out in the spot that the botox determine, it can make the arch too far out by the pull and the shape looks a little odd.
Choosing an eyebrow color
Perhaps you change shades of hair color throughout the year and are concerned about the shade of permanent eyebrow color. The implanted color will coordinate with slight to moderate hair color changes. For more drastic hair color changes (red to brown,etc), all it takes is an appointment with your cosmetic tattoo artist after the appointment with your hairdresser, keep in mind the hair color changes so you keep up with the initial choice. You can change your eyebrow color in the same amount of time it took to color your hair. If you expect a drastic color change to be temporary, you might want to apply temporarly eyebrow color on top of the eyebrow tattoo during this time.
The guideline is to choose eyebrow color 1 – 2 shades lighter than head hair, unless you are blonde or gray, in which case you would choose a couple shades darker. You are not matching the color of your eyebrow hairs, merely creating a shadow behind it.I prefer there shades so they look more natural like real hair shades.
For women with little or no eyebrow hairs, the best technique will be to use at least two to three shades of color drawing Hairstrokes.!!! ideally not a plank of solid color it looks very unnatural and heavy. Multiple colors prevent the ‘blackened in’ look, and hairs are not just one color – they have many shades. The planned eyebrow shape should not be outlined, then filled in — this produces a “coloring book” look (the way children outline & fill in). Using the brushstroke technique for eyebrow cosmetic tattooing results in a very natural appearance. The edges will be more feathery instead of a sharp painted on look. The most natural looking brows are made by using 2-3 tones of brushstrokes on a soft powdery base shape.
“Layering” describes subsequent touchup visits for a few additional strokes of same (monochromatic) or similar (analogous) color to produce varied depth and dimension. The monochromatic look is variations of lightness and saturation of a single color. The analogous look is one color being used as the dominant color and similar colors are used to enrich the look. The analogous scheme is similar to the monochromatic, but provides more contrast. Recent strokes blending with older strokes which are fading off produces an awsome dimensional look. When this maintenance is performed on a regular basis (2-3yrs light blondes, 4-5yrs medium browns, 6-7yrs dark browns & black), you only pay a touchup layering price which is half. If you wait untill the brow color is all or almost all faded off, the work is the same as a new job. If you want to reshape the brow, let it fade off as much as possible and do the different color strokes with temporary eye brow colors. Don’t forget the fact that in three or four years the brows may have change their shape or amount of hair.
Eyebrows are so important in the expressions and shaping of the eyes and face ,they play a dominant role. Eyebrows not only suggest a variety of moods, but can also show your stages of age, emotional reactions and state of mind. If they are too thick, too thin, or arched incorrectly, you can look tired, depressed, angry, or surprised. Cartoon artists and theater makeup artists rely heavily on the eyebrows and mouth to not only convey feelings, but also to help create the illusion of the character to be portrayed. Certain eyebrows and mouths are associated with certain personalities: smart, dumb, strong, weak, evil/mean/scarey, nice, glamorous, young, older, and on and on. For instance, a skinny brow highly placed and highly arched would be more suitable for a damsel in distress than a woman of power – which would need a stronger brow placed low to medium with less arch. The villain usually has angry eyebrows. To make someone look like an alien from another planet, they usually upwing the tail or remove the brows all together.
The surprised or startled look is avoided by placing the peak of the arch closer to two thirds out instead of in the center of the eyebrow, and not over exaggerating it. A highly arched rounded half moon arches have vein used for clowns for a example. Eyebrows that end higher than the beginning can look angry, devious, or alien like Spock on Star Trek. Eyebrow tails that end too low have a whiny, sad or depressed giving up look. You want your brows to represent you well. If the tail is too short, the brows look unfinished or like part of it was wiped off accidentally and don’t support your eyes. The tail should not be too long either – some people extend them way out through the temples like in the 1930’s. Brows should be a little thicker at the beginning and taper in thinner towards the arch. The tail continues tapering in to the end. The beginning of the eyebrow should be above the inner corner of the eye, and should not have a downward hook that makes the brow look like you are frowning . That look closes in the eye and makes it look smaller.
Have you ever noticed the many different eyebrow shapes? Do you know what you do or don’t like? How much curve or arch do you like? How smooth or sharp do you like the arch? Do you like your eyebrow styles thin, medium, or thick? The eyebrow pictures will provide comparisons. It is a good idea to collect photos of different eyebrows and match it to your style of face and the expressions that you are habitual with so at the end of your decision they go with your persona instead of obviously not belonging on your face, it will be to late and they should be a complement.
Beauty tips are only suggestions, and it is wise to follow your choices with the help of a well trained professional. I recommend a couple of opinions at least in the case of permanent and nonpermanent eyebrow shaping. Don’t forget that in many cases when tweezing hair may not GROW BACK !They are not laws that the fashion police will enforce is your face and your confidence at take here. If the beauty book says this face shape needs a sharper arch, and that face shape needs a rounded arch, but the eyebrow hairs don’t grow that way,use discretion and don’t make fast decisions hat you can regret. We all have our favorite type of brow, and cannot insist everyone else wear their eyebrows the way we would like to see them. The goal is to get the basics right and make it look natural.
I get a lot of clients that want eyebrows that are not possible to create or look just very very wrong, so I show them the difference and for most part they change their minds once they see it.
The Brow Buddy
Tools and tips that we suggest
The space between
The eyes determine if they are average, close set, or wide set. The distance between the eyes are normally the width of one eye. When the eyes are close set, the brows can be groomed farther apart so the space between is the width of one eye to create the appearance of more widely spaced eyes. When the eyes are wide set, the eyebrows can be groomed closer together so the space between is the width of one eye to create the appearance of more closely spaced eyes.
Typically, the eyebrow begins above the inner corner of the eye. A tad shorter or longer is ok as long as it isn’t too much. The differences between the two sides of the face can affect the look of symmetry on this also. Women can carefully place each eyebrow to begin above the inner corner of each eye, and then spend a lot of time trying to figure out why it doesn’t look right. Women will zero in on the center spot above the nose and view length of distance to the right for the beginning of that eyebrow, and length of distance to the left for the beginning of that eyebrow. One brow will look like it comes in closer to the center than the other, but both are at the same point above the inner corner of the eye. The challenge here is that one side of the face has a greater distance between the center of the nose bridge and the inner corner of the eye – more so on some than others so here you can use a stencil to me sure it isotherm tools in the market that can aid with this desition.
Mark the center spot above the center of the nose bridge. Don’t look down the nose for a straight line because many noses lean off to one side or the other. With a flexible measuring tape, measure millimeters to the left to a general starting point above the inner corner of that eye, then mark the same millimeters to the other eye. Depending on how much difference in length there is too each eye, compromise a couple of millimeters the direction needed on both sides so that they are both about the same distance from the center starting point try to draw it in and then make a decision and changes keeping in mind the asimetry of the face. It has been my experience that women are happier with a symmetrical distance from the center point than symmetrically placed above the inner corner of the eye.
Eyebrows for different face shapes
The principles behind particular eyebrow shapes for different face shapes are really quite simple. To achieve harmony, we incorporate five principles of art and design: 1) Proportion – the appreciation of line and scale to give the illusion of better proportions of facial shape and features. 2) Balance – the observance of equilibrium to balance the face. 3) Emphasis – making the brow a focal point to detract attention from other features. 4) Rhythm – the flow and movement of brow lines to create harmony in relation to facial structure. 5) Unity – the coordination of smooth lines and sharp angles to unite all aspects for a total look as a whole.
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