This is week 179, and here we are sharing a post on Eyebrows. In the many years of my make up career, one of my passions it’s been eyebrows. My point of view is that you can build and change a character with a few strokes, eyebrows not only frame the eyes, they have the ability to create moods of expressions. Here we offer tips and bits of experience and research of years of collective work. We are sharing answers to questions regarding what to look for in cosmetic tattooing work also. Enjoy and please feel free to write us an email if you have further questions. It is a lot of information we edit so we can keep the attention of all walks of readers. We wish to thank you once again for all your support , please remember to share and like It is an important part for our blog.

 

 Eyebrow Drawing Guidelines

 

Beginning Of The Brow

Expert advice teach that eyebrows should start above the inner corner of the eye.  Sometimes the brow is pulled out or in a little depending on how close or wide set the eyes are. This is of importance due to the fact that that proportion can either make the person look cross eyed if the bridge of the nose is smaller, if the face is round, it separates to make the face look rounder and the eyes smaller . Pulling the brows abnormally close together for the purpose of slimming the nose starts working against you and will make the nose look more prominent or look angry. Some beauty tips say to put a pencil straight up from the outer edge of the nose, but may not be so accurate  because there are too many variations in nose width.  A little more precision is needed if it will be a permanent eyebrow because it is there to stay. I mark the center and measure distance from this point to the start of each brow. This works most of the time. However, nothing is can be taken as ever, never or always and  you can make adjustments before you draw it ll the way.

 

 

 

Arch Of The Brow

The break of the eyebrow arch should be in the area above the outer edge of the iris while focusing straight ahead. This will be a little short of two thirds. You can move the arch out a tad to widen that side of the face, or for other preferences, keep in mind a balance. Beauty tips often say 2/3, or to line a pencil from the outer edge of the nose going up along the outside of the iris and breaking where the pencil hits. The two thirds is one fourth inch too far out for the average face. The pencil from the nose puts the arch even farther than 2/3 unless you are making an extra long wrap around the temple brow. Again, there are variations in nose width that would fan the pencil in or out. Other variations include length of the eyes and how close or wide set they are.

 

The shape of the brow and the entire arch should be seen from the front of the face. The head should not have to be rotated to see the whole brow. The last half inch may start disappearing from the frontal view, but not an inch or more. Too many faces have the arch out too far. It looks like that part of the head was stretched out horizontally, or the brows are too big for their face. It also makes the eye length look shorter. We don’t want to return to the 50’s center arch and look surprised. The best look for the arch is almost two thirds. Factors that affect the need to move it in or out a little bit include brow size and shape, sharp or smooth arch, face size, and face shape.

 

 

 

Ending Of The Brow

The tail end of the brow is marked by placing a pencil or a brush from the center of the lip traveling up along the edge of the outer eye. The mark is made on the inside of the pencil. Variations in face length, face width, eye length, and how close or wide set the eyes are may require moving this mark in or out . Most Beauty tips say to go from the outer edge of the nose, but noses have different widths that would cause this line to fan in or out. The center of the lip stays the same.Is many different looks that can be accomplished by lifting or lowering he outside tip of the brow you can rather lift or droop the look of the eye and the face for that matter.

 

According to most eyebrow experts the ending tip of the eyebrow should be at the same level as the beginning, this can vary depending on the effect you wish to acomplish. A small difference is not noticeable, and the contours of the skeletal structure and fat pads may dictate some modifications. An example is, tails ending lower than a small amount below the beginning look sad or aged.

 

 

 

 

Eyebrow Styles

Basic Eyebrow Shape Guidelines

Eyebrow measurement guidelines are meant to assist in optimizing an individual’s brow shape, there are many companies that offer stencils to aid with shape if you have any doubts. For maintaining brow hair growth in the designed shape when considering  permanent eyebrow tattoo, working with the hair growth pattern is preferred to shaving and redrawing most likely you will be happier. The eyebrows do not have to be shaved to apply permanent cosmetics Tattoo needles go around and between the hairs when it is done correctly. The eyebrow shape can be enhanced toward the shape desired by coloring high in the hairs at the arch, in the middle or as needed in other parts. If a part of the eyebrow, such as the outer portion, does not allow the shape you want, then you can tweeze . The outer brow hair is usually sparse and not an issue for many people. Hair in the inner portion is usually plentiful, and at least part of the hair growth should be incorporated into the design. Eyebrows are drawn on first. When you are happy with the drawn on design, permanent makeup is applied on top of it, using it as a pattern or guide. You may draw them yourself, or let the tattoo artist help you. If there is a particular shape and thickness you want, bring pictures from a magazine to your appointment. This will save time and eliminate any miscommunication about your preferences.

 

 

 

 

Drawing Eyebrows For Face Shapes And Facial Features

Uneven eyebrows may affect the shape you wish to attain. We are all born with one eyebrow shaped different than the other, like one side of the face is different than the other or one brow higher than the other. Uneven eyebrow height usually occurs later in life as a result of the aging process. One side of the face will be lower than the other, and it is almost always the side you sleep on. The pressure on the skin decreases circulation for hours while sleeping, plus the skin gets pulled and slid around when I work on faces, I can always tell the side they sleep on. They usually have a crease and definitely sags more, as a well known dermatologist that I visited told me that was my weak side! Ah didn’t like that. Women often appear to have uneven eyebrows because of habitual raising of the forehead muscles – one side higher than the other –  Interestingly, the brow that women raise higher is actually the brow that is lower in the relaxed position . The muscle gets stronger and stronger, able to raise the brow higher and higher. Remember what Mom said is that if you keep making faces your face will freeze that way?  Some of the brow raising women cannot relax their forehead muscles when they try and not only affects the brows it also affects the creases we make. Sometimes, older women are raising eyebrows to open the eyes more to see better that is one of the trades that plastic surgeons look for when assessing the eyes for a lift, and by the way Insurance covers the upper blepharoplasty lid surgery the reason being of site obstruction !!. Sagging upper eyelids weigh down the eye and decrease, a visual field a test will show that lateral  peripheral and superior upper vision is affected. If the eyebrow is sagging below the brow bone orbital rim, insurance may pay for a direct brow lift (incision above the brow – not an entire forehead lift).

If one eyebrow is lower than the other, or shaped a little differently, you have three choices:

1) Leave them uneven because you want all your real hairs to be growing in the permanent makeup area

2) Make small modifications to improve symmetry (color high on the low side and color low on the high side) – a compromise that would reduce but not eliminate eyebrow hairs in the cosmetic tattoo area, and may still be a little asymmetric

3)Remember we are not Robots similar eyebrows is good exactly the same no so good, it looks weard

 

Many women have not noticed that their eyebrows are not the same, and are less likely to notice it on other people. On the other hand, there are some eyebrow obsessed fanatics that are as upset over a one hair difference as an anorexic is with a one ounce weight gain. We want to get the two eyebrows as similar as possible, but each side of the face is different – which is why it is of importance to keep it in mind  and it can be time consuming to draw the eyebrows the same every morning. The shape of the skull differs from one side to the other in the curvature of the frontal to temporal bone, the prominence of the brow ridge, and the indentation above it each side of the body is different for a reason,masculine and feminine, left and right has a different use and development. The contour of fat tissue is also different on each side. Each side of the face has its own set of muscles, nerves, and blood supply. Often, one side will be the dominant, stronger side. A person will typically raise the same brow to varying degrees all day long without realizing it. This adds to the challange of drawing eyebrows evenly each day. Women tend to raise a brow when focusing in on something – like themselves in the mirror. One side of the forehead muscles tense unnoticeably as you concentrate and become irritated by multiple attempts to complete the task. When you finally reach a satisfactory result, you go finish the morning routine. One last glance in the mirror and AYYYY ! they are uneven after you relaxed the muscles. The eyebrows are going to be in varying positions all day as you work and interact with others, especially if you have a tendency to be very expressive.

A note of caution: When drawing your eyebrows in preparation for cosmetic tattooing, this same thing can happen. The brows can be drawn on; look even, tattooed, and then later looks uneven. One of two scenarios can occur. 1) The muscles were tense and raising the skin unevenly at the time the eyebrows were drawn. They were thought to be even, and were even – in the tensed muscle state. Once relaxed, they are uneven. 2) The muscles were relaxed at the time the eyebrows were drawn. They were thought to be even, and were even – in the relaxed muscle state. Once you return to your normal raised brow position, they are uneven, so is a very good measure to pay attention to the process so you don’t want to erase your artist from the face of the earth, a well trained professional will be swear of this habits.

If a person raises a brow briefly or occasionally, the brows should be drawn evenly in the relaxed position. If a person keeps the same brow raised almost all the time, the raised side can be drawn slightly lower and flatter to compensate. If you are drawing the eyebrows yourself, do it hours before your appointment so you will have plenty of time to recheck them. If you are letting the permanent makeup artist draw your brows, your forehead will be most relaxed while gazing downward at the floor (but keep head up straight). Don’t close your eyes because lack of visual stimuli makes you more sensitive to touch and forehead muscles will tense when you have nothing better to do than wonder what is going on with your eyebrow shaping. Looking at the artist or straight ahead may cause the muscle to tense and raise a brow.

 

 

 

 

 

BOTOX VS FACIAL EXERCISING

Repeated facial expressions leave wrinkles in the skin. The forehead over the raised brow will have more wrinkles and/or a different pattern of wrinkles. A person could try to break the brow raising habit by training not to react with the forehead. Placing a strip of tape( frownies)  upward from the brows can serve as a reminder every time you contract the muscles. Botox shots paralyze the muscle to prevent contraction and give the skin a chance to smooth out. It also helps the muscle forget what it was constantly doing (raising) and helps weaken the too stong hyperactive forehead muscles. It wears off in about four months for most people are different. After many repeated injections, it begins lasting longer and the muscle may become permanently paralyzed Mhmmmm!.  Vendors of facial exercising gadgets like Flex Effect tell us that deteriorating facial muscles cause facial sagging, and that exercising these muscles will lift and tone the face, and increase circulation to feed nutrients to the skin.I like Microcurrent to retrain the muscles it really works and very fast. Lack of muscle use leads to atrophy. Daily exercise, which would contribute to strengthen the facial muscles and increase circulation is a great approach. There are electronic muscle stimulators like the Face master from Suzanne Somers that can give maximum muscle contraction with minimal skin disturbance in the contrary it will regenerate the muscles and the overall of the face. My opinion is that occasional Botox injections are beneficial for preventing wrinkles, but the muscles should be given a period of normal activity before repeat injections. How long the time lapse should be depends on the severity of the case.

 

BOTOX AND PERMANENT MAKEUP

Botox is used in various areas for specific effects. Injected into certain locations of the forehead, it can raise the eyebrows. If botox is raising the brows at the time they are drawn for the eyebrow tattoo, the brow placement and shape will be different after the botox wears off. An eyebrow tattoo should be timed before or after the brow raising technique is in effect unless you plan to have repeated injections forever. Worth mentioning is that when the brow is raised by botox, it pulls the arch out in the spot that the botox determine, it can make the arch too far out by the pull and the shape looks a little odd.

 

 

 

Choosing an eyebrow color

Perhaps you change shades of hair color throughout the year and are concerned about the shade of permanent eyebrow color. The implanted color will coordinate with slight to moderate hair color changes. For more drastic hair color changes (red to brown,etc), all it takes is an appointment with your cosmetic tattoo artist after the appointment with your hairdresser, keep in mind the hair color changes so you keep up with the initial choice. You can change your eyebrow color in the same amount of time it took to color your hair. If you expect a drastic color change to be temporary, you might want to apply  temporarly eyebrow color on top of the eyebrow tattoo during this time.

The guideline is to choose eyebrow color 1 – 2 shades lighter than head hair, unless you are blonde or gray, in which case you would choose a couple shades darker. You are not matching the color of your eyebrow hairs, merely creating a shadow behind it.I prefer there shades so they look more natural like real hair shades.

For women with little or no eyebrow hairs, the best technique will be to use at least two to three shades of color drawing Hairstrokes.!!! ideally not a plank of solid color it looks very unnatural and heavy. Multiple colors prevent the ‘blackened in’ look, and hairs are not just one color – they have many shades. The planned eyebrow shape should not be outlined, then filled in — this produces a “coloring book” look (the way children outline & fill in). Using the brushstroke technique for eyebrow cosmetic tattooing results in a very natural appearance. The edges will be more feathery instead of a sharp painted on look. The most natural looking brows are made by using 2-3 tones of brushstrokes on a soft powdery base shape.

 

“Layering” describes subsequent touchup visits for a few additional strokes of same (monochromatic) or similar (analogous) color to produce varied depth and dimension. The monochromatic look is variations of lightness and saturation of a single color. The analogous look is one color being used as the dominant color and similar colors are used to enrich the look. The analogous scheme is similar to the monochromatic, but provides more contrast. Recent strokes blending with older strokes which are fading off produces an awsome dimensional look. When this maintenance is performed on a regular basis (2-3yrs light blondes, 4-5yrs medium browns, 6-7yrs dark browns & black), you only pay a touchup layering price which is half. If you wait untill the brow color is all or almost all faded off, the work is the same as a new job. If you want to reshape the brow, let it fade off as much as possible and do the different color strokes with temporary eye brow colors. Don’t forget the fact that in three or four years the brows may have change their shape or amount of hair.

Eyebrows are so important in the expressions and shaping of the eyes and face ,they play a dominant role. Eyebrows not only suggest a variety of moods, but can also show your stages of age, emotional reactions and state of mind. If they are too thick, too thin, or arched incorrectly, you can look tired, depressed, angry, or surprised. Cartoon artists and theater makeup artists rely heavily on the eyebrows and mouth to not only convey feelings, but also to help create the illusion of the character to be portrayed. Certain eyebrows and mouths are associated with certain personalities: smart, dumb, strong, weak, evil/mean/scarey, nice, glamorous, young, older, and on and on. For instance, a skinny brow highly placed and highly arched would be more suitable for a damsel in distress than a woman of power – which would need a stronger brow placed low to medium with less arch. The villain usually has angry eyebrows. To make someone look like an alien from another planet, they usually upwing the tail or remove the brows all together.

 

 

 

Bad Brows

The surprised or startled look is avoided by placing the peak of the arch closer to two thirds out instead of in the center of the eyebrow, and not over exaggerating it. A highly arched rounded half moon arches have vein used for clowns for a example. Eyebrows that end higher than the beginning can look angry, devious, or alien like Spock on Star Trek. Eyebrow tails that end too low have a whiny, sad or depressed  giving up look. You want your brows to represent you well. If the tail is too short, the brows look unfinished or like part of it was wiped off accidentally and don’t support your eyes. The tail should not be too long either – some people extend them way out through the temples like in the 1930’s. Brows should be a little thicker at the beginning and taper in thinner towards the arch. The tail continues tapering in to the end. The beginning of the eyebrow should be above the inner corner of the eye, and should not have a downward hook that makes the brow look like you are frowning . That look closes in the eye and makes it look smaller.

Have you ever noticed the many different eyebrow shapes? Do you know what you do or don’t like? How much curve or arch do you like? How smooth or sharp do you like the arch? Do you like your eyebrow styles thin, medium, or thick? The eyebrow pictures will provide comparisons. It is a good idea to collect photos of different eyebrows and match it to your style of face and the expressions that you are habitual with so at the end of your decision they go with your persona  instead of obviously not belonging on your face, it will be to late and they should be a complement.

Beauty tips are only suggestions, and it is wise to follow your choices with the help of a well trained professional. I recommend a couple of opinions at least in the case of permanent and nonpermanent eyebrow shaping. Don’t forget that in many cases when tweezing hair may not GROW BACK !They are not laws that the fashion police will enforce is your face and your confidence at take here. If the beauty book says this face shape needs a sharper arch, and that face shape needs a rounded arch, but the eyebrow hairs don’t grow that way,use discretion and don’t make fast decisions hat you can regret. We all have our favorite type of brow, and cannot insist everyone else wear their eyebrows the way we would like to see them. The goal is to get the basics right and make it look natural.

I get a lot of clients that want eyebrows that are not possible to create or look just very very wrong, so I show them the difference and for most part they change their minds once they see it.

 

 

The Brow Buddy 

 

 

 

Tools and tips that we suggest

 

 

The space between

The eyes determine if they are average, close set, or wide set. The distance between the eyes are normally the width of one eye. When the eyes are close set, the brows can be groomed farther apart so the space between is the width of one eye to create the appearance of more widely spaced eyes. When the eyes are wide set, the eyebrows can be groomed closer together so the space between is the width of one eye to create the appearance of more closely spaced eyes.

Typically, the eyebrow begins above the inner corner of the eye. A tad shorter or longer is ok as long as it isn’t too much. The differences between the two sides of the face can affect the look of symmetry on this also. Women can carefully place each eyebrow to begin above the inner corner of each eye, and then spend a lot of time trying to figure out why it doesn’t look right. Women will zero in on the center spot above the nose and view length of distance to the right for the beginning of that eyebrow, and length of distance to the left for the beginning of that eyebrow. One brow will look like it comes in closer to the center than the other, but both are at the same point above the inner corner of the eye. The challenge here is that one side of the face has a greater distance between the center of the nose bridge and the inner corner of the eye – more so on some than others so here you can use a stencil to me sure it isotherm tools in the market that can aid with this desition.

Mark the center spot above the center of the nose bridge. Don’t look down the nose for a straight line because many noses lean off to one side or the other. With a flexible measuring tape, measure millimeters to the left to a general starting point above the inner corner of that eye, then mark the same millimeters to the other eye. Depending on how much difference in length there is too each eye, compromise a couple of millimeters the direction needed on both sides so that they are both about the same distance from the center starting point try to draw it in and then make a decision and changes keeping in mind the asimetry of the face. It has been my experience that women are happier with a symmetrical distance from the center point than symmetrically placed above the inner corner of the eye.

 

 

 

 

Eyebrows for different face shapes

The principles behind particular eyebrow shapes for different face shapes are really quite simple. To achieve harmony, we incorporate five principles of art and design: 1) Proportion – the appreciation of line and scale to give the illusion of better proportions of facial shape and features. 2) Balance – the observance of equilibrium to balance the face. 3) Emphasis – making the brow a focal point to detract attention from other features. 4) Rhythm – the flow and movement of brow lines to create harmony in relation to facial structure. 5) Unity – the coordination of smooth lines and sharp angles to unite all aspects for a total look as a whole.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

RapidLash Eyelash & Eyebrow Enhancing Serum

RapidLash is an groud breaking paraben-free eyelash renewal serum that helps promote healthy, natural lashes and borws and improve the overall appearance and condition of your lashes and brows.

 

 

 

Revitalash RevitaBrow Eyebrow Conditioner

Winner of THE BEST Treatment For Perfect Brows in the 2015 New Beauty Awards!
Get beautifully shaped eyebrows quickly and easily. RevitaBrow® Advanced uses the power of peptides and botanicals for strengthening and conditioning. Revitalash RevitaBrow Eyebrow Conditioner is a breakthrough, category leading eyebrow conditioner featuring a high impact, proprietary technology for iconic-looking eyebrows.

 

 

 

Chella Beautiful Eyebrow Stencils

To guide you in creating the perfect brow, Chella has developed four templates to help you fashion a beautiful brow that is just right for you. Pick from Alluring, Sassy, Confident or Timeless Chella Stencils.

 

 

 

LASHFOOD BROWFOOD Phyto-Medic Natural Eyebrow Enhancer

Formulated for those experiencing brow loss or thinning due to aging or overly plucked brows.

 

 

 

Model in a Bottle Eyebrow Sealer

Eyebrows give expression to your eyes and frame your face. Now with Model in a Bottle? Long Lasting Eyebrow Sealer, you can be confident that your brows will stay in place all day.

 

 

 

Guerlain Eyebrow Kit

Eyebrow Kit (3x Powder, 1x Highlighter, 1x applicator) – # 00 Universel

neuLASH Brilliant Brows Set

Perfect your face framers with our limited edition Brilliant Browsset.  An essential set for precision brow shaping and defining in a beautiful zippered bag. Perfect for at home and on the go!

 

 

 

According to http://personalcaretruth.com/experts/paula-begoun/

Great site of information, is a must!

Who is Paula?

Paula Begoun is the creator and innovative force behind Paula’s Choice skin care and cosmetics.  Her informative website, that includes reports on skin care and links to video demos, is Cosmetics Cop.  She is the author of 18 best-selling books including Don’t Go to the Cosmetics Counter Without Me, Blue Eyeshadow Should Be Illegal, The Original Beauty Bible, and Don’t Go Shopping for Hair-Care Products Without Me. Paula’s books have sold more than 2.5 million copies worldwide.

Her work as a nationally-recognized consumer expert for the cosmetics industry has led to repeat appearances on CNN, as well as programs such as Oprah, The Today Show, 20/20, Dateline NBC, The View, and Dr. Oz.

Paula’s Story: In Her Own Words

From the very beginning, my goal has been to help women find products that will give them the skin they’ve always wanted—whether you use my Paula’s Choice products that I developed and formulated, or those from another brand. I have the unique distinction of being the only cosmetics company founder in the world who recommends products other than my own.

I created Paula’s Choice as a result of my own frustrations when I was a teenager trying to find products for my problem skin and then, later in life, for wrinkles and skin discolorations. My complexion was a mess and, like many of you, the skin-care products I used either didn’t help or made matters worse.

Paula’s Choice is a comprehensive collection of skin-care and select makeup products that meet my strict criterion for excellence based only on what published research shows is effective. My products are guaranteed to exceed your expectations.

I provide state-of-the-art formulas that are always fragrance-free, ecologically responsible, and never tested on animals. I invite you to let my years of research and acquired knowledge benefit your skin. With Paula’s Choice, healthy, youthful, radiant skin is a result you can count on!

In the early 1990s, Begoun began work with a team of cosmetic chemists to develop her own line of cosmetics and skin-care products. She claims that her products offer results based on published, peer-reviewed research, and that her extensive research of the cosmetic industry provided her with the expertise necessary to develop these formulations. In 1995, Begoun began selling her products online. This has led some consumers to question the objectivity of her product reviews. As counter to these concerns, Begoun claims that Paula’s Choice is one of the only companies that recommends products other than their own.

Begoun remains a consultant for dermatologists, plastic surgeons, major cosmetics companies, news and industry insiders. She positions herself as an internationally recognized authority and consumer advocate for the cosmetics and hair-care industries, and routinely appears on news and talk shows, including CNN,  Oprah,  The Dr. Oz Show, and The View.

 

Ingredient Dictionary from Paula’s Choice

Ratings according to Paula’s Choice

 

 

 

ACACIA FARNESIANA EXTRACT

POOR

A fragrant extract from a type of acacia tree. There is no research showing it to have any benefit for skin (Source: Natural Medicines Comprehensive Database, www.naturaldatabase.com). See gums

Substances that have water-binding properties, but that are used primarily as thickening agents in cosmetics. Some gums have a sticky feel and are used as film-forming agents in hairsprays, while others can constrict skin and have irritancy potential. Natural thickeners such as acacia, tragacanth, and locust bean are types of gums.

 

ACACIA SENEGAL

GOOD

Herb that can have anti-inflammatory properties, but is used primarily as a thickening agent. See gums

Substances that have water-binding properties, but that are used primarily as thickening agents in cosmetics. Some gums have a sticky feel and are used as film-forming agents in hairsprays, while others can constrict skin and have irritancy potential. Natural thickeners such as acacia, tragacanth, and locust bean are types of gums.

 

 

AÇAI

BEST

Pronounced “ah-sigh-ee”, this small berry with a deep purple color is a potent source of antioxidants, including ferulic acid and epicatechin. According to in-vitro research, acai has a higher antioxidant content than cranberry, raspberry, blackberry, strawberry, or blueberry but that doesn’t mean it is the best antioxidant around. According to the Web site www.naturaldatabase.com, “There is insufficient reliable information available about the effectiveness of açai.” Other than functioning as an antioxidant, there is no research pertaining to açai having any effect on skin. Research is scant, but from what as been revealed, there is no legitimate reason to choose açai over many other antioxidants.

 

 

 

ACEROLA FRUIT EXTRACT

GOOD

Acerola contains vitamin C. However, the dry acerola fruit and powder are unlikely to be a good source of vitamin C because much of the vitamin C is destroyed during the drying and processing (Source: Natural Medicines Comprehensive Database, www.naturaldatabase.com). See vitamin C

Water-soluble vitamin that is considered a potent antioxidant for skin. It has been shown to increase collagen production (including dermal collagen, which is significant for wrinkle reduction), reduce the appearance of skin discolorations, strengthen skin’s barrier response, enhance skin’s repair process, reduce inflammation, and help skin better withstand exposure to sunlight, whether protected by sunscreen or not.

Vitamin C is an excellent ingredient to include in your skin-care routine, particularly if signs of aging are a concern. Just keep in mind that no single ingredient is the be all, end all for skin care. Just like your body needs a healthy, balanced diet to function optimally, your skin needs a broad range of ingredients to help it look its best. Vitamin C comes in many forms, with ascorbic acid being the most common.

 

 

ACETIC ACID

POOR

Acid found in vinegar, some fruits, and human sweat. It can be a skin irritant and drying to skin, though it also has disinfecting properties.

 

 

ACETONE

POOR

Strong solvent that is used in Nail Polish removers.

 

 

 

 

 

ACETYL CARNITINE HCL

BEST

See L-carnitine

Also known as carboxylic acid, it is often erroneously labeled an amino acid (which it is not). It has been claimed to have miraculous (albeit unsubstantiated) properties for enhancing the metabolization of fat when taken orally. There is research in animal studies showing it has anti-aging benefits when taken orally (Source: Annals of the New York Academy of Sciences, April 2002, pages 133–166). However, there is no known benefit for skin when it is applied topically in skin-care products, though it may have antioxidant properties.

 

 

 

ACETYL GLUCOSAMINE

BEST

Amino acid sugar and primary constituent of mucopolysaccharides and hyaluronic acid. As such, it can be considered a skin-identical ingredient. In large concentrations acetyl glucosamine can be effective for wound healing. There is research showing that chitosan (which is composed of acetyl glucosamine) can help wound healing in a complex physiological process (Sources: Cellular-Molecular-Life-Science, February 1997, pages 131–140; and Biomaterials, June 2001, pages 1667–1673). However, the amount used in those studies was significantly greater than the amount used in cosmetics.

In terms of exfoliation, the research that does exist was done by Proctor & Gamble and Estee Lauder, and both companies sell skin-care products with acetyl glucosamine (Sources: Journal of Cosmetic Science, July-August 2009, pages 423–428; and Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, February 2007, Supplement 2, page AB169).

In terms of its anti-wrinkle action, there is no research demonstrating that wrinkles are related to wounds. Acetyl glucosamine also has research demonstrating its inhibitory effect on melanin production. Thus, it can be an important ingredient in skin lightening products, particularly when combined with niacinamide. Most of the research concerning acetyl glucosamine’s effect on hyperpigmentation is from Procter & Gamble, and their Olay brand uses acetyl glucosamine in many products. Still, the research is compelling and the protocols sound (Sources: British Journal of Dermatology, August 28, 2009, Epublication; Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, December 2007, pages 232–238; March 2007, pages 20–26; and December 2006, pages 309–315).

 

 

ACETYL GLYCERYL RICINOLEATE

GOOD 

Used as an emollient and thickening agent in cosmetics. See glyceryl ester

Large group of ingredients that are composed of fats and oils. At room temperature, the fats are usually solid and the oils are generally liquid. Some tropical oils are liquids in their sites of origin and become solids in cooler or different applications. These multitudinous fats and oils are used in cosmetics as emollients and lubricants as well as water-binding and thickening agents.

 

 

 

ACETYL HEXAPEPTIDE-8

GOOD

A synthetically derived peptide that is being used in a wide range of skin-care and makeup products, especially those claiming to have a muscle-relaxing effect similar to Botox injections. These claims typically have to do with relaxing muscle contractions when making facial expressions, thus reducing the appearance of expression lines.

The company selling acetyl hexapeptide-8 (trade name Argireline and technically known as acetyl hexapeptide-3), Centerchem, is based in Spain. According to their Web site, “Argireline works through a unique mechanism which relaxes facial tension leading to a reduction in superficial facial lines and wrinkles with regular use. Argireline has been shown to moderate excessive catecholamines release.” Whether or not that is true when applied topically is only is only from Centerchem’s information. There is no published research substantiating any use of Argireline topically on skin.

Catecholamines are compounds in the body that serve as neurotransmitters such as epinephrine, adrenaline, and dopamine. Epinephrine is a substance that prepares the body to handle emergencies such as cold, fatigue, and shock. A deficiency of dopamine in the brain is responsible for the symptoms of Parkinson’s disease. None of that sounds like something you want a cosmetic to inhibit or reduce. If acetyl hexapeptide-8 really worked to relax facial muscles, it would work all over the face (assuming you’re using the products as directed). If all the muscles in your face were relaxed you’d have sagging, not youthful, skin, not to mention it would affect your hand (you apply it with your fingers) which would inhibit you from picking up a cup or holding the steering wheel of your car.

For all the fear espoused by companies featuring this peptide in their “works like Botox” products, there is considerably more efficacy, usage, and safety documentation available for Botox. Despite claims being made for acetyl hexapeptide-8 (argireline), there is a clinical study revealing that this ingredient is not even remotely as effective as Botox in reducing wrinkles (Source: www.cremedevie.com/clinical_details.htm; International Journal of Cosmetic Science, October 2002).>/p>

It is also interesting to note, that even Botox when applied topically on skin has no impact on the skin or muscles in any way shape or form! (Source: Cosmetic Dermatology, July 2005, pages 521-524.) Still, like all peptides, acetyl hexapeptide-8 has water-binding properties and theoretical cell-communicating ability. It’s not a throwaway ingredient, but it’s also not as miraculous as the manufacturer would lead you to believe.

 

ACETYL OCTAPEPTIDE-3

GOOD 

A synthetic peptide that is based around octapeptide-3, a peptide complex composed of the amino acids aspartic acid, glutamic acid, glutamine, and methionine. Also known as SNAP-8, this peptide is said to reduce wrinkles formed from repetitive facial expressions, though there’s no independent research supporting this claim. Even if there was independent research, the usage levels used in company-sponsored testing to support the improvement of deep wrinkles and expression lines was 3-10%, which is far greater than what’s typically used in skin care.

Although this won’t replace what Botox or dermal fillers can do for etched wrinkles, like all peptides it has water-binding properties and theoretical cell-communicating ability. It may play a role in helping skin look and act younger, and can help hydrate and smooth skin.

 

 

ACETYL TRIBUTYL CITRATE

AVERAGE 

Related to citric acid and used as a plasticizer, most commonly in nail polish and nail-hardening products. See citric acid

Extract derived from citrus and used primarily to adjust the pH of products to prevent them from being too alkaline.

ACETYL TYROSINE

GOOD 

An amino acid complex that functions as a skin-conditioning agent. There is no research proving it has a reparative or depigmenting effect on skin.

 

 

 

ACETYLATED CASTOR OIL

GOOD

Used as an emollient and thickening agent in cosmetics. See glyceryl ester

Large group of ingredients that are composed of fats and oils. At room temperature, the fats are usually solid and the oils are generally liquid. Some tropical oils are liquids in their sites of origin and become solids in cooler or different applications. These multitudinous fats and oils are used in cosmetics as emollients and lubricants as well as water-binding and thickening agents.

 

 

 

ACETYLATED HYDROGENATED COTTONSEED GLYCERIDE

GOOD

Used as an emollient and thickening agent in cosmetics. See glyceryl ester

Large group of ingredients that are composed of fats and oils. At room temperature, the fats are usually solid and the oils are generally liquid. Some tropical oils are liquids in their sites of origin and become solids in cooler or different applications. These multitudinous fats and oils are used in cosmetics as emollients and lubricants as well as water-binding and thickening agents.

 

ACETYLATED LANOLIN

GOOD

Emollient derived from lanolin. See lanolin

Emollient, very thick substance derived from the sebaceous glands of sheep. Lanolin has long been burdened with a reputation for being an allergen or sensitizing agent, which has always been a disappointment to formulators because lanolin is such an effective moisturizing agent for skin. A study in the British Journal of Dermatology (July 2001, pages 28–31) may change all that. The study concluded “that lanolin sensitization has remained at a relatively low and constant rate even in a high-risk population (i.e., patients with recent or active eczema).” Based on a review of 24,449 patients who were tested with varying forms of lanolin, it turned out that “The mean annual rate of sensitivity to this allergen was 1.7%”—and it was lower than that for a 50% concentration of lanolin. It looks like it’s time to restore lanolin’s good reputation. That’s a very good thing for someone with dry skin, though it can be a problem for someone with oily skin, because lanolin closely resembles the oil from human oil glands.

 

 

 

ACETYLATED LANOLIN ALCOHOL

GOOD 

An ester of lanolin alcohol uses as an emollient and occlusive agent. An ester is a compound formed from an alcohol and an acid with the elimination of water, and are common among cosmetic ingredients.

 

 

 

ACETYLATED PALM KERNEL GLYCERIDES

GOOD

Used as an emollient and thickening agent in cosmetics. See glyceryl ester

Large group of ingredients that are composed of fats and oils. At room temperature, the fats are usually solid and the oils are generally liquid. Some tropical oils are liquids in their sites of origin and become solids in cooler or different applications. These multitudinous fats and oils are used in cosmetics as emollients and lubricants as well as water-binding and thickening agents.

 

 

 

 

ACETYLSALICYLIC ACID

BEST

Chemical name for aspirin, one of the most widely used anti-inflammatory drugs in the world. Applied topically, aspirin works to reduce irritation and inflammation while also helping to relieve pain and discomfort. Persons allergic to aspirin when consumed orally should avoid applying it on skin.

 

 

 

ACHILLEA MILLEFOLIUM

POOR 

See yarrow extract

Extract for which there is little research showing it to have any benefit for skin. What studies do exist were performed in vitro, and indicate that it may have anti-inflammatory properties (Sources: Planta Medica, 1991, volume 57, pages 444–446, and 1994, volume 60, pages 37–40). However, yarrow also has properties that may cause skin irritation and photosensitivity

 

ACID

AVERAGE

Anything with a pH lower than 7 is considered acidic—above 7 is considered alkaline. Water has a pH of 7. Skin has an average pH of 5.5

 

ACNE SOAP

POOR

Soaps that often contain anti-bacterial ingredients, and they are often overly drying and irritating skin due to the cleansing agents used. A study reported in Infection (March-April 1995, pages 89–93) demonstrated that “in the group using soap the mean number of inflammatory [acne] lesions increased…. Symptoms or signs of irritation were seen in 40.4% of individuals….” Furthermore, if the acne cleanser does contain antibacterial agents, the benefit would be washed down the drain

 

 

ACRYLATE

GOOD

See film-forming agent

Large group of ingredients that are typically found in hair-care products, but that are also widely used in skin-care products, particularly moisturizers. Film-forming agents include PVP, acrylates, acrylamides, and copolymers. When applied they leave a pliable, cohesive, and continuous covering over the hair or skin. This film has water-binding properties and leaves a smooth feel on skin. Film-forming agents can be weak skin sensitizers (Source: Contact Dermatitis, October 2007, pages 242–247).

 

ACRYLATES COPOLYMER

GOOD

See film-forming agent

Large group of ingredients that are typically found in hair-care products, but that are also widely used in skin-care products, particularly moisturizers. Film-forming agents include PVP, acrylates, acrylamides, and copolymers. When applied they leave a pliable, cohesive, and continuous covering over the hair or skin. This film has water-binding properties and leaves a smooth feel on skin. Film-forming agents can be weak skin sensitizers (Source: Contact Dermatitis, October 2007, pages 242–247).

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Don’t Go to the Cosmetics Counter Without Me by Paula Begoun

This book helps women find products that make them look great without spending a fortune. From drugstores and home shopping to department stores and catalogs, Paula Begoun and her team review the hottest skin-care and makeup products major cosmetic and skin-care lines. Regardless of the price tags, there are good and bad products in almost every line and with the turn of a page, readers can get concise reviews and fast answers in this completely revised edition. A user-friendly rating system makes it easy to find items worth trying. Paula also includes skin care basics and tips on which ingredients to look for so you get the results you want.

 

 

 

The Original Beauty Bible: Skin Care Facts for Ageless Beauty

 

The all-new third edition of The Original Beauty Bible is Paula Begoun’s most comprehensive book yet. Exhaustively researched, this refreshingly honest guide cuts through marketing hype to educate consumers on all aspects of beauty, including how to assemble a state-of-the-art skin-care routine, choose a cosmetic surgeon, and apply makeup like a pro. It provides the latest research and information on every imaginable cosmetic innovation, with a special emphasis on skin-care ingredients, and explains the pros and cons of all types of cosmetic surgery and corrective procedures in an engaging, easy-to-understand style. Covering the most critical topics in beauty in a factual, no-holds-barred manner, and packed with money-saving tips, The Original Beauty Bible affirms Begoun’s reputation as “The Ralph Nader of Rouge.” For readers of all ages, it’s the ultimate guide to smart beauty.

 

 

 

Eminence Organics Clear Skin Probiotic Moisturizer

 

Eminence Organics Clear Skin Probiotic Moisturizer (2oz) brings clarity to oily, acne-prone skin with powerful probiotics that remove acne-causing dirt, debris, oil, and bacteria while restoring balance to the skin for a long-lasting clear complexion.

 

 

 

Eminence Organics Clear Skin Probiotic Cleanser

 

Clear Skin Probiotic Cleanser from Eminence Organics brings balance to even the most difficult skin types. With potent cleansers and natural botanicals that remove the causes of acne, breakouts, and blemishes, this cream gel clarifies the skin for a clear, gorgeous complexion.

 

 

Eminence Organics Calm Skin Starter Set

he Eminence Organic Calm Skin Starter Set is the perfect way try the amazing brightening products of Eminence Organics. Including a one month supply of the brightening cleanser, moisturizer, masque, and serum, this skin care kit has everything you need to soothe irritated skin and reduce sensitivity.

 

 

 

 

From our contributor: Cristal Harkins

 

Eco-aesthetician and graduate of Hoss Lee Academy of Esthetics. Created NATURDERMA from which beauty and wellness take flight. It provides an oasis that is about eco and client, where  personal is professional and clients are considered with special care. Cristal has worked from home and worked with several skin care modalities. Since a little girl, Cristal has been exposed to holistic, earth and animal friendly products, always being in that modality, she has studied products and ingredients in detail. She worked and learned from a holistic skin care creator Dr Noel Aguilar founder of DNA skin care, among the many studies and self experiences with Eco friendly skin care and Skin behavior. Cristal truly walks the talk with herself and clients and in every aspect of her life. Cristal customizes her combination of products to each individual, creating the ideal harmony for each client. She offers a genuine care, personalized touch in every session. Cristal executes in a soothing and relaxing setting. She Graduated IPSB Institute of Psycho-Structural Balancing A school of Holistic Body therapy.

 

 

 

The History of Skincare

 

 

The Royalty of Ancient Egypt, 3000 BC-1070 BC

Secrets of the Egyptian Queens

The Ancient Egyptians were known for their knowledge of beauty and their appreciation of luxury. Even today, the remains of their beautiful palaces, temples and monuments attract archeologists and tourists alike. The Egyptians are legendary for their precision and technique, using methods that today’s technology still cannot explain. The need for perfection was something that was very important to them.The Egyptians’ knowledge of beauty was the first culture to develop and record their skin care methods and techniques.

Many Egyptian queens were renowned for mastering the finer points of skin care and beauty. Even today, Cleopatra is considered to have been one of the most beautiful women who ever lived. She was an avid student of beauty techniques and authored one of the first books of beauty secrets. Her secrets included bathing in milk and rubbing her skin with aloe vera. Queen Nefertiti and her two daughters were also known for their beauty and were buried with a number of cosmetic implements, such as tubes of the kohl they used to line their eyes. Queen Thutu was another pioneer of make up and skin care techniques. She used pumice stones to exfoliate her skin, and had a special bronze dish used to mix herbs and plant compounds into beauty ointments and eye shadows.

The Egyptian Desert Effect

Skin care techniques were not only important for queens, but were an important part of Egyptian court life. The hot, dry desert air took its toll on the skin, and many cosmetics were developed to keep the body’s largest organ soft and supple. In fact, combating the climate was one of the main concerns of many Egyptian beauty regimens. Most noble men and women wore their hair short or shaved their heads to allow for better aeration and easier scalp care. They covered their bare heads with elaborate wigs made of human hair, plant fibers and sheep’s wool. Plant oils were used as moisturizers and were liberally applied to the whole body. While these were necessary to combat the effects of the dry air, they were also scented with fine perfumes which helped keep the wearer smelling fresh all day. In fact, the Egyptians were expert at mixing perfumes and many of the perfume pots found in tombs still contain traces of their original scents, thousands of years after they were buried.

While their sense of cleanliness and hygiene may have originated in response to the climate, the Egyptians soon developed elaborate skin care systems based on a deep knowledge of plants, oils and organic compounds. Noble men and women were expected to bathe daily, and many applied scented oils to their bath water. Exfoliating scrubs were made from sand and aloe vera. Numerous formulas for body oils were developed to help treat specific skin ailments. Some formulas, such as those made to fade stretch marks, were intended mainly for women. Others, such as those made to prevent balding and promote hair growth, were intended mainly for men.

The Egyptian nobility also developed a number of cosmetics intended for special occasions. Many perfumes and incenses were used in religious ceremonies, particularly during the last rights before burial. Other cosmetics were used for more festive occasions. Women and men would attend parties, their eyes lined with thick kohl and their heads adorned with their most elaborately decorated wigs. They would often attach cones of perfumed wax to the tops of their wigs. These cones would slowly melt, releasing the scent of jasmine and frankincense into the air.

 

The Beginning of the Book of How to Make the Old Young

The Egyptians valued youthful vibrance and beauty and developed many concoctions intended to smooth away wrinkles and regrow lost hair. Some of these were even compiled into a book titled The Beginning of the Book of How to Make the Old Young. Fenugreek, a grass-like plant with a number of medicinal and ceremonial applications, was the main ingredient in many anti-aging lotions. Concentrated fenugreek oil was considered to be a potent skin care treatment that would erase wrinkles and other blemishes, leaving the skin eternally youthful. Even in death, good skin care and a youthful appearance were important to the Egyptians. Many tombs contain the perfume pots, the make up containers and the remnants of body oils necessary for maintaining a beautiful, youthful appearance in the afterlife.

 

Practical Beauty: Skin Care Regimens of the Nile

Oils and lotions were another important part of everyday Egyptian life. They were used to moisturize the skin and protect it from the effects of the sun. While this type of skin care was important for all Egyptians, it may have been even more important for the workers who spent the day outside in the dry desert air. In fact, many workers were paid with tubes of body oil that were used by themselves and their families. Although most did not have access to the specialized formulas made to treat stretch marks or hair loss, it was important that every Egyptian keep their skin soft, well scented, and protected from the sun.

The Egyptians also put an importance on make up that that was different for gender and social class. Eye make up in particular had a number of purposes that went beyond simple aesthetics. The thick eyeliner seen in most Egyptian paintings was usually made of kohl, galena or stibnite. While there is no doubt that lined eyes were considered attractive, it was also believed that eye liner protected the wearer from the Evil Eye. Galena and stibnite were often prescribed by doctors for their medicinal properties, and galena was known to deter pesky flies and other insects. It also performed a similar function to the grease paint used by today’s football players to keep the sun out of their eyes. This function was particularly important for those who spent the day working outside.

While Egyptians may not have invented the idea of holistic beauty, they developed it and perfected it to an extent that we still have yet to reach. The practical, the medicinal, the spiritual and the aesthetic were seen as inseparable and were important for every Egyptian, regardless of social class. Even today, many Egyptian ingredients such as aloe, sodium bicarbonate, myrrh and frankincense are used in the finest natural skin care products.

There were two other main ingredients that the Egyptians used on hair,skin,and nails. Pigments were made from berries, tree bark, minerals, insects, nuts, herbs and leaves. Many of which are still used today. Kohl, a white silver metallic substance related to arsenic and tin was used by the ancient Egyptians as eye makeup. It was often used as eye liner to make eyes look bigger and brighter. The soot from lamps was used on the brows and lashes to darken them, also as a form of eye shadow. Red oxide of iron was used in preparation of face paint. Henna, a dye that comes from the powdered leaves and shoots of the mignonette tree. It was valued for the reddish tint it gave. Cleopatra was fond of using clay from the Nile River, mixed with herbs and essentials oils for facial treatments. Although some of the ingredients use in ancient cosmetic would be considered extremely dangerous these days.

Although many different cultures made skin care and facials for what they are today, my favorite is the ancient Egyptians, they had so much style and grace and really used all resources. They made a big impact on what ingredients we use and ways we do skincare, facials and makeup. Although the Egyptians made a big impact on what beauty and skincare products are today, there are other cultures from around the world that contributed to this as well.

 

 

The Hebrews 

The early Hebrews were known for their beautiful, healthy skin and hair. They bought cosmetics from Judah to Egypt and made herbal preparations for skin, hair, teeth and nails. Products such as frankincense, myrrh, cinnamon, and rosemary were used to anointing and healing the skin. At that time, these crushed trees and essential oils had antibacterial properties that helped prevent diseases but they had no knowledge of its abilities.

 

 

The Greeks

The word cosmetics actually comes from the Greek word kosmetikos meaning one is skilled in cosmetics. the Greeks used lots of perfumes, and cosmetics in their religious ceremonies, grooming and medicinal purposes. They built elaborate baths and developed excellent methods of dressing the hair and caring for the skin and nails. Greek women applied white lead to their faces, kohl on their eyes, and vermilion on their cheeks which is a brilliant red pigment made by grinding up cinnabar, a mineral that is a chief source of mercury into a fine powder. It was mixed with ointments or dusted on skin the same way we use and apply cosmetics these days. Around 200 C.E. Galen, a Greek physician, mixed rose water, beeswax, and olive oil together to create what was popular in those days known as cold cream. At times the olive oil was replaced with almond oil but was found that it spoiled easily. In 1907, mineral was then used because it was a more stable formula.Mineral oil is a natural oil from the earth and is comes from petroleum. Unlike other oils mineral oil is colorless, odorless, requires no preservatives is hypoallergenic and has a long shelf life.This product paved the way for Pond’s cold cream which is still a favorite these days.

 

 

The Romans

The ancient Romans adopted the customs of Egyptians and Greeks. They were most famous for their baths, which were beautiful public buildings with separate areas for men and women. Steam therapy, body scrubs and massage were all available at the bath houses. Most times after bathing they would apply rich oils and other concoctions to keep skin looking healthy and attractive. Fragrances made from flowers, saffron, almonds and other ingredients were part of grooming and bathing rituals. The Roman women used infinite amounts of fragrances and cosmetics. Facials made of milk and bread and at times fine wine were very popular. Other facials made of corn, flour, and milk and even flour mixed with butter as well. A mixture of chalk and white lead were used as facial cosmetics. Cheeks and lips were reddened with the coloring of vegetable dyes and colored makeup was also applied to the eyelids and eyebrows. The Romans also developed methods of bleaching and dyeing the hair.

 

 

The Asians

Asians have a long history of health practices. Traditional Chinese Medicine can be traced all the way back to 2900 B.C. Early practitioners were experts in herbal cures and practices of acupuncture. In ancient China, grooming practices and clothing indicated the wearer’s status in society. Nails were also an important part of ones image. In Japan the makeup of the Geisha is still and intricate and highly stylized art. Asians are known for their beautiful costumes, arts and crafts. High standards of cleanliness and adherence to good health habits.

 

 

The Africans

Traditional African medicine features diverse healing systems to be about 4,000 years old,since ancient times. Africans have created remedies and grooming aids from materials found in their natural environment. They also have fashioned intricate and artistic hairstyles, and often used their face and body with colorful pigments and designs. Some of the ingredients in the cosmetic mixes we use today have been used for centuries in Africa for healing and beauty purposes.

 

 

The Middle Ages

The Middle Ages was the period of time in European history classical antiquity and the Renaissance, beginning with the downfall of Rome 473 C.E and lasting till 1450. During this time, religion played an important part in peoples lives, healing with herbs was a big use in the churches. Tapestries, sculptures, and other such artifacts from this period showed towering headdresses, intricate hairstyles, and the use of cosmetics on skin and hair. Women wore colored makeup on their lips and cheeks but never on their eyes. Bathing was not a ritual, but fragrant oils were used by those that could afford them.

 

 

 

 

 

The Renaissance

The Renaissance was the period during which the Western civilization made the transition from medieval to modern history. Painting and written records tell so much about the grooming practices of the time. One of the most unusual practices was shaving the eyebrows and the hairline to show more of the the forehead. A bare brow was given women the look of greater intelligence. During the Renaissance time, men and women took great pride in their physical appearance and wore elaborate, elegant clothing. Fragrances and cosmetics were used, although highly preparations form lips and cheeks and eyes were frowned upon. The hair was carefully dressed and ornaments and headdresses. During the reign of Elizabeth the first, facial mask were popular. Formulas for lotion and packs included ingredients such as powdered eggshells, alum, borax, ground almonds and poppy seeds. Milk, wine, butter, fruits and vegetables were also used in mask and cosmetics and fragrances lavishly used. Although cheeks and lips were colored with makeup, but eye makeup was not in fashion. More elaborate hairstyles and wigs were very popular.

 

The Age of Extravagance

This era was between 1755 to 1793 which was called the age of extravagance it was the Marie Antoinette times she was the queen of France between that time. Women of status bathed in strawberries and milk and used a number of extravagant cosmetics such as scented face powder from pulverized starch. Lips and cheeks were often brightly colored in pinks and oranges. Small silk patches were often used to decorate face and conceal blemishes. Eyebrows were shaped and glossy substances was used applied to the eyelids, but eyes were not intensely colored. Men and women who could afford it wore enormous powdered wigs and elaborate clothing.

 

The Victorian Age

The Victorian age marks the time of the reign go Queen Victoria of England 1837-1901. Fashions in dress, hairstyling, and makeup were highly influenced by social mores of this time. The Victorian age was one of the most austere and restrictive periods in history. Makeup and showy cloth was discouraged except in theaters. In the United States  people copied European fashions, but wore very little facial makeup. For men and women cleanliness and and personal care were of importance. To preserve the health and beauty of skin, women used beauty mask made from honey, milk, eggs, oatmeal, fruits, vegetables, and other natural ingredients. It was once discovered that women in this time used to pinch cheeks and bit their lips to induce natural color rather then use cosmetics such as lipstick and rouge.

 

 

The Twentieth Century 

By the 1920’s, industrialization had brought a whole new prosperity to the United States. Influenced by the stars of silent films. Fashion trademarks from this period were brightly colored cupid’s bow mouth and eyeshadow applied beneath the lower lids. A wide variety of creams, oils, and lotions were manufactured fro skin, hair and body care. By the 1930’s Americans were strongly influenced by the media such as newspapers, magazines, radio and motion pictures provided important sources of information on fashions in the United States as well as other countries. Most admired women stars had platinum blonde hair, brightly colored lips and cheeks and pencil thin highly arched eyebrows. Sleek hair and a trimmed neat mustache was popular for men.

In the World War II times, most involved the civilized world, and most young men were in uniform. A clean shaven, closely cropped hair and neatly pressed uniforms were required for service as they still are today. To this day styles seen on the big screen were copied by millions of women all over the world. Even in the war times when there was a shortage of supplies. Sales of cosmetics and grooming supplies continued to grow. Postwar prosperity led to more interest in fashion, hairstyling, and makeup. European designers exerted a strong influence on clothing and hairstyles. A wider selection of cosmetic goods became more available to Americans. Colored foundations, or makeup bases, cleansers, creams, lotions, moisturizers and an array of lip, cheek and eye colors flooded the market. Movie stars continued to influence the makeup and hairstyles. Full eyebrows and lips became very popular. Heavier eyeliner and false eyelashes were used to emphasize the eyes. During the late 1960’s the facial conturing with cosmetics became popular, and the thin eyebrow came back into fashion.

The 1970’s and 1980’s brought exciting changes as manufactures introduced an even wider variety of new products for care of skin and hair. The trend was to look ones best rather then to copy any popular hair or makeup style. There was new interest on the part of men and women in skin care. Many more salons became full service, not only offering hair care and styling, but a full complement of grooming and beauty services. The last two decades of the twentieth century there was  awareness and the importance of physical fitness and nutrition. This also extended to skin care as well. Baby boomers demanded products and services that produced visible results. Manufactures and practitioners responded by creating products based on botanicals,antioxidants and vitamins. Spas around the United States offering services thats integrated the principles of both beauty and wellness. Then moving into the 1990’s products and cosmetics with more therapeutic properties was born. Where as before the past skin care philosophy had largely focused on treating the surface and covering flaws with makeup, scientific and technological advances now made it possible to formulate topical products with beneficial effects on the skin. At the end of the decade consumers could choose from an expanding anti-aging treatments including internal supplements that promoted skin care from the inside out and high-tech procedures like microdermabrasion. Preventing the effects of age, stress, and the environmental was the focus of the skin care industry as it entered the twenty first century.

As you have read how all these cultures and times have changed and made what skin care is today. Pretty impressive and very interesting facts. As an esthetician I truly love how the times have changed for skin care. My passion for skin care is influenced by the history of skin and how and what its evolved to be today. Hope you enjoyed reading as much as I enjoy writing. Thank you!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Karin Herzog Egyptian Earth – Magic Fair

An exceptionally formulated finishing powder, based on the sheer powder the ancient Egyptians used to protect their skin against the sun’s harsh rays. Designed to provide lightweight, breathable and even coverage, Egyptian Earth evens and illuminates the skin tone with soft pigment and reflective mica. Discoloration is diminished and the skin takes on a clear, radiant finish. The soft, powder formula applies easily and sets to a fine, creamy and long-lasting finish. Magic Fair is best for light to pink based skins.

 

 

 

 

 

Egyptian Magic All-Purpose Skin Cream

 

Kamitian folklore recalls the existence of a miraculous skin cream secretly used by the great sages, mystics, magicians and healers of ancient kamit (ancient egypt), used as an anti-aging skin rejuvenation to maintain radiant, healthy, smooth and glowing skin.

 

 

 

Eminence Organics Rosehip Whip Moisturizer

 

Eminence Organics Rosehip Whip Moisturizer (2oz) fights problematic skin conditions such as acne, rosacea, and sensitive skin with potent hydrators and nutritive vitamins that bring balance to your complexion.

 

 

 

 

Fashions in Makeup: From Ancient to Modern Times

In this highly praised volume, Richard Corson chronicles the pursuit of beauty from Ancient Egypt to the present day. Concentrating mainly on makeup traditions of the Western world, with some examples from other countries included for comparison, Corson describes the cosmetics with which men and women have decorated their faces, how they have applied them, and what they looked like as a result. This edition has an additional 16 new pages by fashion historian James Sherwood to bring makeup trends up to the present day. It is an essential reference for students, makeup artists, costume designers, actors, illustrators, beauty consultants, social historians, and all those interested in the use and application of cosmetics.

Classic Beauty: The History of Makeup

The definition of a beautiful face has never been constant. See how political and social climates have molded accepted beauty rituals and the evolution of cosmetics from ancient times through today. This colorful reference book chronicles historic trends for the eyes, lips, and face, and offers in-depth aesthetic reviews of each decade from the 1920s to today. Follow the rich history of facial trends through fascinating and bizarre vintage ads; detailed makeup application guides; and profiles of famous makeup innovators, connoisseurs, and iconic faces. Over 430 images, timelines, and detailed vintage color palettes show the changing definitions of beauty and document makeup innovations (the first mascara, lipstick, eye shadow, etc.) that have evolved throughout the history of cosmetics. This is an ideal reference for the professional makeup artist, cosmetologist, educator, student, and general makeup enthusiasts.